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Flasher with NE555

Preview of the CNC template “Flasher with NE555”

The classic timer circuit: an NE555 makes a red and a green LED flash alternately, about once per second. Runs on 5 to 12 V, single-sided and without a wire jumper.

Size
62 × 49 mm, 1.6 mm thick
Material
Circuit board (FR4)
Difficulty
Beginner
Milling time
approx. 18 min
Bits
Engraving bit 30°, PCB drill Ø 0.8 mm, PCB drill Ø 1.3 mm, Corn cob router bit Ø 2 mm
Customise
Fixed template, freely editable once opened

Free with an account · carve with Chrome or Edge · no installation

Build instructions

Parts

QtyPartValueIn layout
1Resistor 0.25 W10 kΩ
Colour bands: brown, black, orange, gold
R1
1Resistor 0.25 W47 kΩ
Colour bands: yellow, violet, orange, gold
R2
2Resistor 0.25 W470 Ω
Colour bands: yellow, violet, brown, gold
R3, R4
1Electrolytic capacitor
Polarised: the stripe on the case is minus, the long lead is plus (square pad).
10 µF / 16 VC1
1Ceramic capacitor10 nFC2
1LED 5 mm
The long lead is the anode; the flat side (cathode) points to the mark in the layout.
redLED1
1LED 5 mm
The long lead is the anode; the flat side (cathode) points to the mark in the layout.
greenLED2
1Timer IC
Notch towards the mark in the layout; solder the socket first and insert the IC last.
NE555IC1
1Screw terminal 2-pin, 5.08 mm pitchX1
1IC socket DIP-8

You also need: soldering iron (about 30 W, fine tip), 0.5 to 1 mm solder with flux, side cutters and a multimeter.

Assembly

  1. Mill the board: isolate the copper first, then drill, and finally mill out the holes and the outline. The order is shown in the Milling panel.
  2. Cut through the holding tabs, deburr the edges and rub the copper bright with a scouring pad. After that, do not touch the copper side with your fingers.
  3. Use a magnifier and a continuity tester to look for leftover copper between neighbouring traces; cut any bridges with a craft knife.
  4. Insert the parts from the side without copper and solder them on the copper side. Fit low parts first: resistors and diodes, then sockets and transistors, and finally capacitors, terminals and large parts.
  5. Before soldering, compare the polarity with the component layout: band of the diodes, flat side of the LEDs, minus stripe of the electrolytic capacitors, notch of the ICs.
  6. Solder each lead for about two seconds at around 330 °C: tip on pad and lead, feed solder until it flows all round. Then clip the leads just above the joint.
  7. First solder the resistors R1 to R4 and the capacitor C2, then the IC socket with its notch towards the mark in the layout.
  8. Fit LED1 (red) and LED2 (green) with the flat side towards the mark, then the electrolytic capacitor C1 and finally the terminal X1.
  9. Visual check: no solder bridges, no dull, balled-up joints. Remove flux residue with isopropyl alcohol and an old toothbrush.

Test and power up

  1. Before switching on for the first time, check with the meter that there is no short between plus and minus of the supply. Power up the first time on a bench supply with current limiting if possible.
  2. Press the NE555 into the socket with the notch towards the mark; pin 1 is next to the notch.
  3. Apply 5 to 12 V to X1: the LEDs flash alternately. A smaller C1 or R2 makes them flash faster, a larger one slower.
  4. Finally protect the copper side against oxidation with solder lacquer or plastic spray.

How to carve this template

  1. OpenOpen the template in the app and adjust size and text if you like.
  2. CheckLook at it in 3D, check run time and warnings.
  3. Set upThe carve wizard guides you through material, clamping, bit and zero point.
  4. CarvePress start; the app drives your Grbl router directly over USB.