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24 V optocoupler input

Preview of the CNC template “24 V optocoupler input”

Brings 12 to 24 V signals from limit switches, sensors or PLCs safely to a microcontroller: the PC817 isolates both sides galvanically, LED1 shows the signal, D1 protects against reverse polarity.

Size
55 × 40 mm, 1.6 mm thick
Material
Circuit board (FR4)
Difficulty
Intermediate
Milling time
approx. 10 min
Bits
Engraving bit 30°, PCB drill Ø 0.8 mm, PCB drill Ø 1.3 mm, Corn cob router bit Ø 2 mm
Customise
Fixed template, freely editable once opened

Free with an account · carve with Chrome or Edge · no installation

Build instructions

Parts

QtyPartValueIn layout
1Resistor 0.25 W2,2 kΩ
Colour bands: red, red, red, gold
R1
1Resistor 0.25 W10 kΩ
Colour bands: brown, black, orange, gold
R2
1Signal diode
The band on the case is the cathode and sits on the side of the line in the layout.
1N4148D1
1LED 5 mm
The long lead is the anode; the flat side (cathode) points to the mark in the layout.
yellowLED1
1Optocoupler
Notch towards the mark in the layout; solder the socket first and insert the IC last.
PC817IC1
1Screw terminal 2-pin, 5.08 mm pitchX1
1Screw terminal 3-pin, 5.08 mm pitchX2
1IC socket DIP-4

You also need: soldering iron (about 30 W, fine tip), 0.5 to 1 mm solder with flux, side cutters and a multimeter.

Assembly

  1. Mill the board: isolate the copper first, then drill, and finally mill out the holes and the outline. The order is shown in the Milling panel.
  2. Cut through the holding tabs, deburr the edges and rub the copper bright with a scouring pad. After that, do not touch the copper side with your fingers.
  3. Use a magnifier and a continuity tester to look for leftover copper between neighbouring traces; cut any bridges with a craft knife.
  4. Insert the parts from the side without copper and solder them on the copper side. Fit low parts first: resistors and diodes, then sockets and transistors, and finally capacitors, terminals and large parts.
  5. Before soldering, compare the polarity with the component layout: band of the diodes, flat side of the LEDs, minus stripe of the electrolytic capacitors, notch of the ICs.
  6. Solder each lead for about two seconds at around 330 °C: tip on pad and lead, feed solder until it flows all round. Then clip the leads just above the joint.
  7. Solder the IC socket with the notch towards the mark, then D1 (band towards the mark) and LED1.
  8. Never connect the two sides: the input ground (−IN) and the microcontroller ground (GND) stay separate, otherwise the isolation is lost.
  9. Visual check: no solder bridges, no dull, balled-up joints. Remove flux residue with isopropyl alcohol and an old toothbrush.

Test and power up

  1. Before switching on for the first time, check with the meter that there is no short between plus and minus of the supply. Power up the first time on a bench supply with current limiting if possible.
  2. Insert the PC817 with the dot (pin 1) towards the mark.
  3. Connect the microcontroller's VCC (3.3 or 5 V) and GND to X2, and OUT to an input: with no signal, OUT is pulled to VCC through R2.
  4. Apply 12 to 24 V to X1: LED1 lights up and OUT goes to 0 V (active LOW).
  5. Finally protect the copper side against oxidation with solder lacquer or plastic spray.

How to carve this template

  1. OpenOpen the template in the app and adjust size and text if you like.
  2. CheckLook at it in 3D, check run time and warnings.
  3. Set upThe carve wizard guides you through material, clamping, bit and zero point.
  4. CarvePress start; the app drives your Grbl router directly over USB.